Live Talk Transcript: China and Hong Kong

Western China has loads of places that would qualify. Dali in central Yunan, has been a popular hang-out for years, and shows no sign of fading. Zhongdian, in northern Yunan by the Tibet border, was recently re-branded by the Chinese government as Shangri-la, the official model for the Himalayan Utopia of Hilton's "Lost Horizon." It's a serene town in a stunning alpine setting, with a small group of travelers making the long trek to the town, so it seems to still have plenty of mileage.

This circuit in Yunan would be a great 2-3 weeks excursion. You could fly from Beijing (or most big cities in China) to Kunming, capital of Yunnan Province, and then travel overland from there, or fly again to Lijiang; Zhongdian is a few hours further north by road.

For places like these, you can easily get by on $30-40 per day; some spend lots less. Food in restaurants across China is shamefully cheap if you eat in even decent local places. Costs are generally more expensive in places like Zhongdian/Shangri-la, which don't have as well developed a budget traveler scene.

English is surprisingly well spoken in all the places that I mention above; credit the tourist boom and the dollars that come with it. But that really only applies to those in the tourist trade. In the countryside, little English will be spoken. Phrase books are handy, but unless you really plan to get off track, I think the basic language you get in good guidebooks is sufficient when one is counting the pounds in the luggage on a long trip.

_______________________

Saratoga, CA: Hi Ron: We will be visiting Guilin and Shanghai in December for 13 days. We are planning a 7-day tour in the Guilin area. What do you recommend as must-see's in the Guilin/Yangshuo areas? What about Hangzhou in December -- is it worth a sidetrip?

Ron Gluckman: Guilin is easily one of China's most beautiful areas. The scenery there, stunning conical mountains rising above brilliant green rice fields, makes for the trip of a lifetime. Be sure and get down the Li River to Yangshuo. This used to be a charming backwater, then the only oasis for backpackers in China. It's still a haven for young travelers, but it's an undiscovered town no more. Still, even with all the tourists, it's a wonderful place to take a break, bike ride into the countryside and hike in the stunning hills.

My recommendation is to try and get away from the tour groups. They offer the same trips, which become a bit artificial. I've had fantastic luck simply hopping a boat down river or hiring a motorcycle to go off into the hills. The point is to get away from the crowds. Village people are genuinely welcoming and it's great opportunity to see a bit of rural life in southern China.

Chinese have an enormous sentimentality about Hangzhou, which they consider one of the world's most beautiful places. It's hard to argue with that assessment, in any season. You can boat, hike around and take tea on islands in the West Lake, and lose yourself for days in nearby villages. In recent years, a number of smaller river towns near Hangzhou, Suzhou and Shanghai have begun gaining popularity with tourists.

Zhouzhuang and Tongli are the most famous and developed -- some would say overdeveloped. Granted, the crowds dampen the atmosphere, but there is real reason to visit these charming old backwaters, with wooden houses and cobbled stone paths, seemingly little changed from the time of Marco Polo. The other river towns are Luzhi, Nanxun, Xitang and Wuzhen. Bus tours take in Zhouzhuang and Tongli, but your hotel can also arrange a car to these two or any of the others. One or two make a great day trip from any of the nearby tourist cities.

_______________________

Fort Worth, TX: We will be traveling to China next week for a 3-week vacation. I've heard that tipping a small amount for services rendered in Hong Kong is acceptable, but that tipping taxi drivers, bellhops, etc. is not allowed in mainland China, and is even considered insulting. Could you give me some hints on tipping etiquette? Thank you!