Reykjavík

What you'll find in this story: Reykjavik travel, Reykjavik restaurants, Reykjavik culture, Reykjavik affordable travel, Iceland neighborhoods

Whether it's due to the cost of importing or the lack of competition, nothing comes cheap in Iceland. The idea of healthy living hasn't really caught on, either. Having said that, there are quite a few nice little restaurants, most in the downtown area, that are affordable (at least by Icelandic standards).

Baejarins Bestu: good enough for Bill Clinton and Metallica (Hördur Sveinsson) [enlarge photo] FEBRUARY 2005 ISSUE • Table of Contents • Secret Hotels of the Caribbean • Australian Road Trips • Southern New Mexico • Reykjavík • A Month in New Zealand • Bedbugs are Back • New Lessons in Online Savings

Eld smidjan

An almost life-size James Dean stares at a haunting blonde painted by former punk princess Elly. On the floor above, a painting by Harpa shows death having a drink with friends. But there's more to Eld Smidjan than decor. It has the best pizzas, with toppings from fish to snails. Can't decide? Leave it to the chef, who'll usually whip up something involving cream cheese. From $9 for a 10-inch margherita pizza. Bragagata 38a, 011-354/562-3838.

Hornid

The name means "corner," appropriately enough, since it's on a corner in the center of town. Reykjavik's oldest Italian restaurant is only 25 years old. But it's still perhaps the best (and the candles on the tables are more than you can say for some places). Look at the blackboard for the day's special, which might be pasta, baked seafood, or panfried saltfish; it comes with soup ($18). The pizzas, calzones, and pastas are nice ($15 to $20), as is the salmon, from a local river ($31). Hafnarstræti 15, 011-354/551-3340.

Nonnabiti

Nonnabiti is the top manufacturer of batur, or "boats," more or less what more advanced cultures call submarine sandwiches. It closes later than most restaurants here, which means 2 a.m. weekdays and 6 a.m. weekends, so it's a favorite of pub crawlers. (Get a dollar off before 1:30 p.m.) The big, greasy boats have a unique taste due to Nonni's sauce, which he invented--only he and his wife, Björk (no, not her), know the recipe. Try the lamb or fish boat ($10), or a holiday boat, with smoked pork, if you're in around Christmas or Easter. Hafnarstræti 11, 011-354/551-2312.

Graenn Kostur

Graenn Kostur ("green choice") is completely vegan: no sugar, no bleached flour, nothing from the animal kingdom. (Not exactly true--Antonio, a chubby cat thought to resemble a Latin lover, is served dairy products.) Actor Viggo Mortensen stops by on his frequent horse-riding trips. If you're in luck, the day's special ($12) will be a stuffed pepper or, failing that, a spinach pie. A second helping costs $3. Skolavördustigur 8b, 011-354/552-2028.

Baejarins Bestu

The Icelandic hot dog is not to be missed, and this stand, "the town's best," lives up to its name. On a sunny day the line stretches down the street. The hot dogs are made mostly from lamb, and if you ask for one with everything ("eina med öllu"), you get mustard, ketchup, raw and fried onions, and remoulade. A hot dog costs $3, but you'll want a pair. Two members of Metallica--James Hetfield and the new bass player--shared seven. Bill Clinton stopped by in August but only wanted mustard. Now you can ask for a Clinton and get just that. Tryggvagata (no street number), 011-354/894-4515.