The cheerful smile of the bakery lady who came to know exactly what I wished to order each morning: hot and fragrant pastries direct from the oven.

The sounds of families coming home from work and school, with the gossip, the arguing, and the laughter everywhere.

The red-haired schoolboy who greeted me with a goofy grin and a "Bonjour, madame" that always made me smile.

Two international soccer teams which, after a beer or nine, decided to stage a practice game at 2 a.m. on the street under my window. The Italians won.

Finding the best tapas bar in Spain in which to eat calamares.

Watching from my window as a head-of-state was ushered down the street by a contingent of mounted cavalry wearing uniforms from another era.

Waking on Sunday to the ringing of the bells in the nearby cathedral.

Strolling through flower markets, taking photos and my own sweet time to enjoy every blossom.

Excuse me I get a little misty when I think of all the wonderful experiences I had after I fired Jeeves and decided to go it alone in the real neighborhoods of real people. If you try it, a stay in a self-catering apartment will surely prove to be the best vacation you ever have.

Agencies renting self-catering apartments

Prices vary widely depending on the season, region, company, and luxury level, but a good self-catering apartment will cost at least 15 to 20 percent less than most mid-range hotel rooms. For Europe: Prices for apartments have not increased much in the last five years. They start at around $85 per night (although some can dip down to $55 during winter). For Asia: Hong Kong apartments tend to be deluxe, and start around $90 per night; you'll rarely find self-catering apartments in Japan. For Australia: Apartments start at around $85. For the U.S., prices vary more widely than other countries, but here are some regional examples: In Hawaii, apartments start at a surprisingly cheap $55-$75 per night; for New York, studio apartments in this pricey city often start at $100 per night; for Texas and other less-touristed states, apartments start at $69 per night; for Orlando, apartments that sleep four start around $88, but ones sleeping up to ten usually start at $156 per night-a grand economy of scale.

France Servissimo 011-33/1-43-29-03-23 servissimo.com. Apartments of various sizes and locations throughout Paris. Friendly, helpful staff. At Home Abroad 212/421-9165 athomeabroadinc.com. Throughout France, including the Cote d'Azur and Provence. (Also serves Caribbean, Ireland, Italy, Mexico, Morocco, Portugal, U.K.) United Kingdom Holiday Serviced Apartments 011-44/20-7373-4477 holidayapartments.co.uk. Central London economy studios and flats, all fully equipped, many amenities, security, full kitchens. Apartments throughout the U.K. (Also serves Australia, Belgium, France, Germany, Hungary, Italy, Portugal, Spain, Switzerland, U.S.) Oakwood