Shut Up and Ski

The latest ski resort trends--ritzy spas, slopeside boutiques--have nothing to do with why you head to the mountains in the first place. America's top 10 old-school ski resorts, where lift tickets max out at $52

Snow, snow, and more snow. Wolf Creek gets the most in Colorado, and the views on the traverse to Alberta Peak rival those at any resort in the Rockies. Most runs are short--the mountain's a lot wider than it is high--and because Wolf Creek is so far removed from anything resembling a city, there's plenty of snow for everyone. People are as laid-back and unpretentious as they come; it's not uncommon to see someone lugging in a Crock-Pot for a picnic in the lodge. The cafeteria sells PB&J sandwiches for $1.50 and daily specials, like a cheesesteak with fries and a dessert for $7. The atmosphere may change if Clear Channel Communications magnate Red McCombs's plans for a 287-acre development at the base of the Alberta lift are realized. Locals are fighting the proposed development, which could destroy a six-mile loop for cross-country skiers and their dogs.

How to get there

At Powder Mountain, Utah, snowcats tow skiers and boarders into the backcountry for $7 a run (Craig Wetherby) FEBRUARY 2006 ISSUE • Table of Contents • Secret Hotels of Costa Rica • Europe on the Quick: A Long Weekend in Stockholm • Pacific Coast Highway • Trip Coach: Spain, Portugal, and the Azores • Shut Up and Ski • 40 Best Vacations

The nearest airports to Wolf Creek are in Durango and Alamosa, each about an hour from the mountain. It's usually much cheaper to fly into Albuquerque (four-and-a-half hours by car) or Denver (six hours), if you can handle the drive.

Where to stay

The High Country Lodge, just outside Pagosa Springs on the west side of Wolf Creek Pass, rents modern log cabins with full kitchens and heated floors, and each unit comes with a fireplace or potbellied stove. Hot breakfast in the lodge is included (3821 E. Hwy. 160, 800/862-3707, highcountrylodge.com, lodge room from $65, cabin from $110).

Après-ski

The first restaurant on the way from the mountain to Pagosa Springs is JJ's Riverwalk Restaurant & Pub, a favorite for its happy hour (4 p.m.--6 p.m.), when beers on tap are half-price, well drinks are $1 off, and appetizers are discounted 25 percent (356 E. Hwy. 160, Pagosa Springs, 970/264-9100).

Local's tip

Avoid spring break if at all possible," says David Pryce, a sales staffer at Doc's Outdoor Sports in South Fork, who skis at Wolf Creek around twice a week. "That's the middle to the end of March, when all the high schools and universities are out, and one of the few times the mountain is crowded."

CALIFORNIA
HOMEWOOD

Elevation: 7,880 feet
Vertical drop: 1,650 feet
Skiable terrain: 1,260 acres
Annual snowfall: 450 inches
Lift ticket: $45 or less
Info: 530/525-2992, skihomewood.com

Stellar views of Lake Tahoe, 300 days of sun per year, and a totally hassle-free experience: It's no wonder the resort motto is "Smile, You're at Homewood." Skiers pull off Route 89 directly into Homewood's parking lot, and within 15 minutes find themselves halfway up the Madden Triple Chair. About 65 percent of the terrain is beginner and intermediate, making it one of Tahoe's best places to learn to ski or ride. Experts get theirs, too, with tree skiing in the Hobbit Land area, rails and jumps in Shredwood Forest Terrain Park, and the steep chutes of Quail Face. Local hotshots head to Homewood after a big snowfall because they know they'll find stashes of powder long after Tahoe's more famous (and more crowded) resorts are tracked out. But it's the lake views that keep people coming back. For the best (and longest) look, take Rainbow Ridge from the summit to Cradle, then head down the Face. It makes for a great last run of the day.