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Trip Coach: July 11, 2006
Dan Washburn, founding editor of the blog Shanghaiist.com, answered your questions about China
Tuesday, July 11, 2006

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Kalamazoo, MI: We are arriving in Shanghai on October 1 and I read this is National Day in China. Is this a major holiday that will make it difficult for us to get around, get meals, etc? We will stay at either the Peace Hotel or Equatorial (where our tour, which we will join 4 days later, will stay). The Peace Hotel sounds much more interesting; is it still a 3 star or so place to stay? Can we assume 2 beds for 2 people or do we have to specify this? (Do they have queen sizes usually?) Lastly, and you can really help here: we would like to visit the old hutong areas, if there are any left. Where would you suggest, to get off the beaten "tourist" path? (We know NO Mandarin) I am very interested in the "Old China" which I hear they are doing away with as fast as possible. Thanks!

Dan Washburn: National Day is indeed a major holiday and it is a time of year when many of us try to escape China and go somewhere else (I'm getting married in Thailand during the holiday this year). The city will be crowded, some parts more than others, but I am assuming you expected crowds in China anyway. Last year, an estimated 83.48 million people visited Shanghai during the holiday week, and some major roads were turned into pedestrian streets for certain periods of time. One of those roads was The Bund, which is where the Peace Hotel is. This photo shows what The Bund looked like on the evening of October 1 last year. You'll see that you better be a people person if you plan on staying in that part of town, although after the first of the month the crowds aren't quite as bad.
 
The Peace Hotel is interesting from a historical perspective, but it is also dusty and dowdy and overpriced. The owners know this, too, and recently announced plans for a $50 million renovation. I am not sure when that is going to start, but in my mind The Bund would be better to visit than to stay at during that time of year. The Equatorial would be very comfortable and it's in a good location, but completely lacking in character. If you aren't limited to those two choices, I would suggest an affordable and historic boutique hotel called the Old House Inn -- I mentioned it in my Budget Travel story about Shanghai. And wherever you go, specify how many beds you will need.
 
As far as "hutongs" -- that is more of a Beijing thing. We call our old brick and stone lane neighborhoods longtangs here. While it is true they are being torn down at an alarming rate, there are still plenty to explore. Sometimes they are where you least expect them ... like right behind major roads. For example, I live in an old neighborhood that contains longtangs and we are right off Nanjing Xi Lu, one of Shanghai main drags, about a one minute walk from a Louis Vuitton store. Explore the areas behind Nanjing Xi Lu and Huaihai Lu and around Xintiandi for old neighborhoods. Also worth exploring is the strip between Nanjing Lu and Suzhou Creek between The Bund and People's Square. But really, if you wander most parts of downtown Puxi (the west side of the Huangpu River) you are going to come across a fair number of old neighborhoods. If you see an interesting alleyway or lane, take it and explore. Shanghai is generally a very safe city.

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Billings, MT: My husband and I are planning our first trip to China, leaving sometime this fall. While it would be easier to just go with a tour, we really prefer independent travel. Is it reasonable to think we might be able to get around China on our own, without a tour guide? If a tour is the way to go, which tour companies do you recommend?

Dan Washburn: Well, this really depends on what kind of travelers you are and where you want to go. It's definitely possible to explore China on your own. I have done it, and I know several other people who have done it, too. But it can be confusing, frustrating and tiresome at times. Some people thrive on that -- some people don't. Thankfully there are some tour groups around that feel a little less suffocating than others. I haven't used them personally, but I have heard good things about Shanghai-based Yana and Beijing-based Wild China, both of which organize outings that are a little more rural and rugged than normal.

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Burnaby BC: Greetings, A few years ago I visited Hong Kong and was lent an Octopus card for public transportation. Where can I buy my own next trip and what is the cost? Thanks. Tracy

Dan Washburn: I have only been to Hong Kong once and that was when I first arrived in China. Foggy memories. Luckily, I have friends in Hong Kong, and I posed your question to them.
Steven writes:

You can buy an Octopus card at most MTR (subway) and KCR (commuter rail) stations as well as at the airport (arrival level). For visitors, you probably want to get the Adult On-Loan version for HKD 150 ($100 stored value plus $50 deposit). You get the deposit back when you return the card -- but they charge you $7 if it's returned within three months.
Octopus is actually more than just a transportation card. Besides using it for subway/train/bus/tram/ferry fares, you can use it at many retailers throughout the city (including grocery shops and convenience stores). A must-have indeed. More info can be found here and here.


And no, Steven doesn't get paid by Octopus for those nice words, either.
 Hong Kong blogger Simon added:

You can also buy an Octopus card at any 7-Eleven. You can also "add value" to the card at these places and plenty of other "add value" machines in shopping centres, McDonalds, supermarkets and more. Typically you pay a deposit of HK$50 and that gets you a card with HK$30 of value on it (although this varies by card), but you can also go and buy the Octopus watch etc. You can also use the card for more than transport, including buying things at Coke machines, supermarkets, food outlets etc. You can store up to HK$1,000 at a time.


Note: This story was accurate when it was published. Please be sure to confirm all rates and details directly with the companies in question before planning your trip.
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