Trip Coach: January 16, 2007

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San Francisco, CA: Hi Diane Mehta, My son and his wife would like to honeymoon the Golden Triangle in North India on November 6, 2007 and also visit a tiger game/wildlife sanctuary totaling about 12 days. Though he was born in Madras he knows little about India as he came here as a six year old. Should he take an escorted group tour on American Plan or try doing it on own? Thank you.

Diane Mehta: That's a great question, since so many people do exactly this trip. I think if you're on a honeymoon you may want to consider going it alone---you'll have leisure, you'll get to stay in some of the world's best hotels, and you'll eat better. And assuming you're talking about the Delhi-Agra-Jaipur trip (called the Golden Triangle), it's an easy trip to take, as the flights are good, and nothing's difficult to get to. (A group tour, or even a day tour, is better for the harder-to-reach and rural areas.)

Plus you'll get a chance to visit Ranthambore National Park, Rajasthan's famous royal hunting retreat and tiger sanctuary. (Best time to visit here is Oct-March, and transport around the park is by government jeep.) It's worth it---most people do end up seeing tigers (and other wildlife) there. And there are quite a few jungle lodges around here, ranging from exorbitant to reasonable.

In Delhi, Ashok Travels and the Delhi Tourism Department both run tours of the historical sights---or what I like to do is hire someone through the hotel to give you a more personalized look at the city (both Old and New Delhi). And if you're on your own, you can arrange a stay at Delhi's loveliest hotel, The Imperial, a combo of Art Deco, colonial, and Victorian styles. They have terrific food, and the interior is gorgeous.

In Jaipur, the Oberoi Rajvilas and Taj Rambagh Palace are both stunning, if not a bargain. (But if you're going in early Nov you may get a decent deal.) Agra's top hotel is the Oberoi Amarvilas, again worth stopping at for a meal at least. (Agra is a 2-3 hour drive from Delhi, doable in a day.)

Finally, if you want to do some serious shopping, and also get clothes tailored for cheap, you'll only have time to do that if you're on your own.

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Boston, MA: I hope to spend several months in Dharmsala. What is the best time to be there in terms of weather/climate? Seeing wildflowers? Avoiding biting (flies, mosquitos) insects?

Diane Mehta: Dharamsala, a hill station in the state of Himachal Pradesh, is a hub for trekking, so you'll have no problem seeing wildflowers wherever you go! Fall or spring is ideal, since the summer's too rainy and Dec-March is pretty cold.

The Mountaineering Institute just north of Dharamsala arranges trekking expeditions in the forest. But if you're there for a while you should be able to find a private guide and arrange walks/treks for cheaper. (But start with an official group and see how it goes.)

Incidentally, you'll see plenty of beautiful Buddhist temples there, frequented by the many Tibetan refugees who have settled there. And anywhere in India I always bring mosquito repellent, just in case, though it's not less of a problem outside the rainy season or in the alpine areas. Since it's the Himalayas, and out of reach, I'd bring all the possible medicine you need for every possible circumstance---especially since you'll be there for a while.

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Fairhope, AL: What is the availability of bottled water in the more rural areas?

Diane Mehta: Bottled water is available throughout India, even in the less-traveled parts.

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Denver, CO: I will be meeting my daughter in India in February. She has been there for several months and knows the culture well. We will be spending most of our time in Rajasthan. Do you have any good ideas for places that we must see that are somewhat off the beaten path?

Diane Mehta: Rajasthan is terribly off the beaten track---it's one of the top destinations for both foreign and Indian tourists. But few make it all the way west to Jaisalmer, a fort town in the Thar desert, close to Pakistan. It's a good six-hour drive or train ride (late at night) from the city of Jodhpur, so it's quite out of the way, and it's a great place to arrange several-day camel treks in the Thar desert, outside the city. (Jodhpur is also a good base for camel safaris, if you don't make it all the way out to Jaisalmer.)

Alternatively, you can go to more popular places like Udaipur, which is a gorgeous hilly town built around many lakes, and take day trips to Ranakpur, a huge, beautifully carved Jain temple in the forest, and to Kumbhalgarh Fort, a citadel on a hill (if you're up to it, you can visit both in one very long day). West of Udaipur is Mt. Abu, a Jain pilgrimage site and the only hill station in Rajasthan.

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Easton, CT: My husband and I (ages 60) are going to north and south India Oct. 2007 for a 27 day vacation and will end up in Chennai. Should we substitute time in Chennai and visit Periyar Tiger Trail for a day or two? Would Mudumalai Wildlife Sanctuary and Nat. Park do instead? We want guaranteed tiger sighting. What is most worthwhile?

Diane Mehta: That's a tough question. I don't think you can guarantee tiger sightings anywhere.

Periyar is larger (more than 700 square kilometers), but there are, if I remember correctly, less than 50 or so tigers there. Still, the people working there have been doing it for a long time, and are bound to be excellent trackers.

On the other hand, Mudumalai is smaller, over 300 square kilometers, but I'm not sure exactly how many tigers they have. But since you'd already be in Tamil Nadu it would certainly be much easier to get to, and perhaps a better use of your time.

Perhaps the most likely place to see tiger (the most sightings I've heard from other travelers) is Ranthambore National Park, in Rajasthan.

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Washington, D.C.: My son and his Indian fiance will marry in Chennai in late December. I'm aware of the fact that this is the time when the whole world of expat India returns home. Is there any way that we can book a budget roundtrip flight from DC to Chennai? We are willing to fly round the world tickets. Thanks, Jack and Ruth

Diane Mehta: The prices actually aren't all that much different from one season to the next. The problem is actually getting a flight, and paying top prices for a hotel. If you book before the summer, with a local agent, you may get a slightly discounted price ($1200 vs $1500), with a stop in Europe. But once fall comes around, you'll have a harder time booking any flights at all.

One piece of advice is to have your son's fiance arrange a group discount rate at a hotel, so you won't be paying standard high-season rates. If they're guaranteed a booking of, say, 50 or 100 people, they tend to bargain down.

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Easton, CT: My husband and I will be in India Oct. 2007. We will be at MANVAR DESERT CAMP (tent). It seems very isolated (Thar Desert). Is it safe?

Diane Mehta: Manvar's right between Jodhpur and Jaisalmer, maybe a 3-hour drive west of Jodhpur. Indeed, it's isolated. The Thar desert is punctuated here and there by towns, but if you're with a hotel/safari camp I wouldn't worry. There's no saying whether one place is safer than the next, but if you're traveling together (versus a woman alone), a safari camp in the Thar desert should not be a problem.

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Easton, CT: Can we mail payment and visa application forms to Consulate General of India in New York? If so,how long to get it back? I get no one to speak to when I call.

Diane Mehta: Indeed, you have to call and call and call. After 40 minutes or so, someone usually picks up---other times they don't.

Nevertheless, you can do it this way, but I'd recommend giving yourself plenty of time. Usually the turnaround time is a few days, but as high season approaches it may take a few nail-biting weeks. Go ahead and mail the payment and application, and make sure you follow the directions precisely. Worse comes to worse, you can actually go to the Consulate and inquire about your Visa. It is unlikely, however, to get to that point.

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Minneapolis, MN: My question is: Does the toy train from Kalka to Shimla operate in the winter months? I will be in Northern India from February 18 - March 4, 2007 on a business trip. I have traveled to India before and have traveled to Shimla by train. However, my previous trip to Shimla was during August. I would like to visit Shimla during a different time of year. My 4th Edition of Fodor's India has served me well on my previous four trips to India. However, I can not find anything in the book to indicate whether or not the toy train to Shimla is seasonal or if it operates year round. And, if it is not seasonal, is there any source of heat in the train cars during the winter months? There will be three adult passengers on the train trip. My train trip to Shimla would be during the week of Feb. 26, 2007. Thank you, Ann

Diane Mehta: It's my understanding that it does, though naturally you'll have weather to deal with. (But you should check with the Himachal Pradesh government to make sure.) That's a very good question --- whether it's heated --- I've never taken the toy train, but the journey from Kalka to Shimla isn't very long, so even if it isn't heated the trip will be quick. Feel free to email me at dianemehta@yahoo.com next week and I'll look into it for you.

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Yonkers, NY: I would love to travel to India, but none of my friends want to go there. What is the best tour group for a single woman to see India? When is the best time of year to go?

Diane Mehta: I think you should first figure out what you want to see and do --- do you want to trek, say, up in the Himalayas? Or would you rather see temples and cities, and the major tourist sites?

For trekking, I would go with the oldest and best established U.S. companies, like Mt Sobek Travel or Wilderness Travel. They tend to keep their groups small, and they've been doing it for decades, so they really know the areas they're traveling in. And you'll be well taken care of. Mt. Sobek does more trekking in the Himalayas, while Wilderness offers a variety of tours, from Rajasthan to South India.

If you're traveling to the Himalayas, most tours would leave in the spring or fall. The rest of India is usually best seen from Nov-Feb.

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Diane Mehta: Thanks for all your questions everyone! I had a great time, and hope I helped you out with your planning. Look for more tips in Fodor's Indi.

Best, Diane Mehta

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