San Francisco, Calif.: Dear AnneLise,

A friend's been badgering me to visit Spain. He doesn't speak Spanish, but is depending on mine (Mom's from Guatemala) to get us around. My questions concern going to Barcelona. If the native language there is Catalan, do Catalonians speak Spanish? Is it a wrong assumption that Catalan is a dialect of Spanish? Just wondering whether you think I'll understand Catalan and whether Catalonians will understand me if I speak in Spanish. I'll probably still go either way, since I've heard Barcelona is such a beautiful, lively, cultural city; it'd just be neat to know ahead of time. I intend to get your book, too. Thanks, Trip Coach!

--Miguel

AnneLise Sorensen: Miguel,

Hola--I'll begin by saying "Bon tarde" ("Good afternoon") and "Encantat!" ("Good to meet you!") Firstly, yes, all Catalonians speak Spanish fluently, so you'll easily be able to converse with everyone as a Guatemalan-Spanish speaker. And, that's right: Catalan is not dialect of Castillano, but a language in its own right--in fact, many linguists say that it's older that Castillano.

All that said, most of the street signs and metro stops are in Catalan, and much of the local news is also in Catalan. The El Periodico newspaper publishes both a Castillano and a Catalan version, which offers an interesting chance to compare the two languages.

After a couple of days, you'll likely find yourself adapting quickly, and even picking up a phrase (or three!) to impress the folks back home. And, you'll also impress the Catalanes themselves: try out a few Catalan greetings, and you'll be greeted with warm smiles. A few phrases to get you started:

• Em dic...
  My name is...
• How do you say ... in Catalan?
  Com es diu en català?
• Bona sort! Molta sort!
  Good luck!

P.S. If I had to pick one other city that reminds me most of Barcelona, I'd say it would be yours: San Francisco!

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New Ulm, Minn.: Does Barcelona have a "City Tour" hop on & off bus and if so, is it worth it to get a quick overview?

AnneLise Sorensen: Yes, the colorful Bus Turistic is a top-notch way to get around town, offering a great overview of the city, with routes through the north and south, and also a new one around the Port area. You can hop on and off at your leisure throughout the route; a central place to pick up the bus is in Placa Catalunya.

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Portland, Maine: I will be in Barcelona for a week in October. I love taking day trips or other side trips on vacation. Some of the areas I'm looking to visit could include Valencia and the Dali museum. Are there any other day trips you would suggest?

AnneLise Sorensen: Hola--Day trips from Barcelona are an excellent way to explore Catalonia: I highly recommend the Dali museum, so that's a first choice, and here are a few others:

• The Montserrat monastery, northwest of Barcelona, is perched amid surreal, spectacular rocky peaks, which almost resemble giant, dribbled sandcastles. The 11th-century monastery itself is worthy of a visit, as is the nature park that surrounds it, which is crisscrossed by walking trails. Regular buses and trains travel here from Barcelona.
• You've probably seen Freixenet (in its signature black bottle) and Codorniu cava, especially around New Year's Eve. This is Catalonia's answer to champagne, and if you'd like to sample the Catalan bubbly at the source, head to the lovely Alt Penedes region, west of Barcelona, which is home to all of the region's cava wineries. You can tour the wineries, and sip plenty of samples; particularly impressive is the Codorniu winery, housed in a gorgeous Modernista building with a whopping 16 miles of cellars spread out over five floors.
  
• The sun-speckled beach town of Sitges, south of Barcelona, also makes for a relaxing day trip--and it's just a short train ride away.

Enjoy your time in--and around--Barcelona!

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Bronx, N.Y.: Hello, a group of 4 ladies and I are traveling to Barcelona in the end of November. We would like to stay in a bed and breakfast; any place in particular you recommend? We would also like a 1/2 day tour to see La Virgen Negra. Can you recommend a tour that is affordable leaving from Barcelona? Muchas Gracias! Heidi

AnneLise Sorensen: Hola ladies--On bed-and-breakfasts: generally, it's outside of Barcelona, inland and north towards the Pyrenees or along the coast, that you'll find bed-and-breakfasts--or rather, farmhouses called "casa rural," or "casa de pages"; check the Barcelona tourist office for up-to-date listings. Within Barcelona, you'll generally only find hotels, pensiones, hostales or aparthotels. I'm not sure what your budget range is, but if you're up for a splurge, you could try the beautiful Condes de Barcelona (Pg de Gracia 75, condesdebarcelona.com) with a pentagonal lobby and marble floor.

As for seeing La Moreneta, or the Black Virgin, you'll find a number of tours, including those run by Julia (juliatours.es) and Pullmantur (93/318-0241). Note also that you can hop on a train from Plaça Espanya (trains run hourly from 8:30am to 6:30pm), which then connects with a funicular that will take you the rest of the way to Montserrrat.

Enjoy your trip, ladies!

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Falls Church, Va.: My husband and I, who are 27 and 26 years old, are planning a week-long trip to Barcelona during the first week of October. Is it warm enough to go swimming at the beach during this time of year? Also, I read there are concerts at the Catalan Concert Hall...are these expensive?

Thanks,
Brooke.

AnneLise Sorensen: Brooke--October is a month where the weather can go either way; in the first half of the month, the warm weather from summer still lingers, and so you may find that it's sunny enough to take a dip in the Mediterranean. In the second half of the month, though, the autumn temperatures can begin to dip, in which case you might find it a tad chilly for a swim.

I highly recommend attending a concert at the Palau de la Musica Catalana; as I mentioned to another reader, a concert at this gorgeous, Modernista concert hall will make for a night to remember. Tickets prices vary, but are generally quite reasonable. Check their website, home.palaumusica.org, for more information and to buy advance tickets. Enjoy!

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Columbus, Ohio: A friend and I are planning to go to Barcelona in Sept or Oct, 2008 to celebrate our 45th birthdays. (Her first trip to Barcelona; my second.) We'd like to spend about 10 days there and, instead of a hotel, we're considering renting a flat in the Old Quarter/Las Ramblas area. Is there a rental management company you'd recommend? There seems to be so many I don't know where to start! Also, what's your opinion on going in Sept vs. Oct? Last question: What day trips should we investigate? We both enjoy museums, local flea markets, sightseeing and good food. And both of us are pretty adventurous when it comes to exploring new cities.

Thanks for your help!
Amanda

AnneLise Sorensen: Amanda! Congratulations on your joint 45th birthdays! As I've recommended to another reader, for furnished apartments for both for short- and long-term stays, try the local agency Habit Servei (C Muntaner 200, 93/209-5488, habitservei.com). As for dates, I think both September and October are great months to travel to Barcelona: You'll find September to be a tad warmer, of course, but overall this is an excellent time of year to be in Catalonia, because there are fewer crowds, more discounts, and relatively balmy weather. Barcelona is perfectly positioned as a base for day trips, so you'll find a wealth of options. This is a popular question today, and I've recommended a variety of day trips to several readers--so check my answers to them for more details--but in a nutshell I suggest day trips to the phenomenal Dali Museum in Figueres; to the captivating Montserrat monastery; and to sun-washed Sitges and the Daurada Coast, among others. And by the way, if you like flea markets, you'll find that Barcelona has a range of colorful flea markets, including Mercat Gotic, in Placa de la Seu, which fills the plaza in front of the cathedral on Thursdays; and the large Els Encants, on Placa de les Glories on Mon, Wed, Fri and Sat. Have a great trip!

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Lexington, S.C.: I will be in Barcelona for 2 days prior to a cruise in September. What are the top spots my mother (age 81) and I would like to see? Any non-touristy tips for restaurants and/or sightseeing? We prefer doing on our own rather than large tour groups.

AnneLise Sorensen: Hola--With two days, I suggest you visit at least one Gaudi sight, along with flower-filled Las Ramblas and the Old Town; check out my answer to the reader in Cherry Hills, NJ, for more. As for restaurant and sightseeing tips: Many of the touristy eateries (hint: laminated, quadrilingual menus are a giveaway that they're targeting tourists!) along Las Ramblas tend to have inflated prices; instead try the tapas bars and restaurants nestled in the smaller streets of the Old Town. (As I mentioned to another reader--though this area is relatively safe, please remember to always be cautious with your belongings.) As for sightseeing: Note that a number of museums and sights are closed on Mondays. And, as with everywhere in the world, to avoid the crowds try visiting early in the morning, just after a sight opens, or at the end of the day, a couple of hours before closing. Bon viatge!

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Long Island, N.Y.: Hello! We are taking our 3 daughters--ages 10, 13, and 15--to Barcelona during Christmas week of this year. We would like to do a "tapas crawl" with the girls but we really need tapas that would appeal to our children. Anything vegetarian or with seafood is fine. "Mystery meat" and pork are definitely out. Do you have any suggestions of a route that would could follow and different tapas that would appeal to kids? Thanks!

AnneLise Sorensen: You're in luck! Tapas offer a varied, bite-sized introduction to Catalan cuisine, allowing you and the kids to sample to your heart's content. And, many of the more popular tapas appeal to children of all ages. Start off with the tortilla de patatas--Spain's comfort food--a round, thick potato omelette, cut into wedges like a pizza. Kids will gobble it up--as will adults, especially if you add a generous dollop of alioli (in Catalan, this translates as "garlic and oil"), a rich garlic mayonnaise. Creamy chicken or ham croquettes are also perfect for little fingers, as is pa am tomaquet, bread smeared with tomato and drizzled in olive oil. If your daughters have a sweet tooth, let them do as Catalan kids do and sip a Cacaolat, a rich chocolate milk concoction, or orxata, a milky white beverage made from tiger nut. And since you'll be here in winter, you might also like to try the hot chocolate, which isn't just rich, but thick as pudding. Try dunking churros, beveled sticks of fried dough, into it. The best spots to indulge are at the chocolaterías along Carrer Petrixol, off Carrer Portaferrisa in the Gothic Quarter.

As for your tapas crawl, you'll find oodles of options, but perhaps the most enjoyable way to tuck into these baby bites is at an outdoor spot, where you can partake in Barcelona's balmy weather. Las Ramblas is dotted with tapas bars, but they tend to be overpriced. So, while you should undoubtedly stroll this celebrated pedestrian street--your daughters will delight in it for the sheer entertainment value, what with all the human statue performers and jugglers--start your tapas crawl north of Placa Catalunya, along the genteel, tree-lined Rambla Catalunya--popular with Catalan families--or on the elegant Passeig de Gracia, where you can graze on tapas on outdoor terraces in view of colorful, undulating Modernista buildings. Try the perennially popular Qu Qu (Pg de Gracia 24, 93/317-4512), which serves up oozing, three-cheese croquettes. You'll also find top-notch tapas as you prowl the narrow streets of the Old Town, including the lively Cal Pep (Pl de les Olles 8, 93/310-7961) and boisterous El Xampanyet (C Montcada 22, 93/319-7003). Buen provecho!

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Tampa, Fla.: Hello, I'm traveling to Barcelona in October with my niece. I've been to Spain before, so I know that Corte Ingles is the main department store, but I'd rather shop at a store that's not so large. Where else can you shop and find gifts or souvenirs in Barcelona?

AnneLise Sorensen: Hola--the massive, well-stocked El Corte Ingles is great for one-stop (or last-minute) shopping, but it can be somewhat impersonal. Let's start out with what to buy--one word: leather. Spain is well-known for its high-quality leather at reasonable prices, so I would indulge in at least one pair of shoes or a handbag while you're here; Passeig de Gracia and Bulevard Rosa (a high-end mini-mall on Pg de Gracia) are dotted with upscale shops; Loewe (Pg de Gracia 35) has quality leather goods. If you'd like to go the budget route, try Av Portal del Angel or C Pelayo, which are both chock-a-block with discount shoe stores. And speaking of footwear, why not pick up a pair of Spain's traditional, rope-soled alpargatas, better known by their French name espadrilles? These days, particularly in New York and London, colorful espadrilles seem to be starring in display windows everywhere. Here in Barcelona, you can get them at half the price and in myriad styles; one of my favorite spots is La Manual Alpargatera, an old-style cobbler haven in the Gothic Quarter, where you'll find basic to fancy alpargatas, starting for as low as 8 Euros. For more, check out an article I wrote: "The Soul is in the Sole."

As for unique souvenirs, peruse Montfalcon, La Rambla 111, a historic store that sells traditional Spanish fans, from lavish lacquered ones to basic wooden numbers. Another great gift is turron, Spain's traditional nut-and-nougat candy, which you can purchase at Casa Colomina (C Portaferrisa 8), which was established in 1908. (Note: pick up the non-oily variety for easier transport home in your suitcase.)

Happy shopping!

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Rock Falls, Ill.: I'm heading with a group of 8 friends to Barcelona at the beginning of August. I'm not a shopper, nor do I feel profoundly compelled to do tons of site seeing. I just want to chill out with my friends in some place with character and possibly live music. Any recommendations? I also speak Castellano Spanish. Would it be better for me to make attempts to speak to Catalan speakers in Spanish or just stick to English? I don't want to offend anyone, and I know I don't have enough time to pick up enough Catalan to get me by between now and then.

Sincerely,
Korah

AnneLise Sorensen: Korah, to chill out in Catalan nightspots with character, I suggest either the Raval or the El Born/La Ribera neighborhoods, both of which exude Old Town character, but without quite the number of tourist crowds that you'll sometimes find in some other parts of the Gothic Quarter. For a proper martini and maybe some alterative jazz, try the bars and cafes along and around Passeig de Born, like the 1950s-style Gimlet (C Rec 24). For ethnic and world music in a groovesome, laid-back setting, kick back at Al Limon Negro (C Escudellers Blancs 3), north of El Born. In El Raval, try Marsella, a dimly lit Modernista bar, which serves up cocktails and absinthe to crusty regulars--and travelers in the know. Finally, though the secret has long been out about London Bar (C Nou de la Rambla 34), this cluttered, amiable watering hole--once a hangout of the likes of Hemingway, Picasso, and Miro--is a cool spot to ease into the evening to the accompaniment of live jazz and folk.

As for speaking Spanish--yes, by all means feel free to chat with Catalanes in Spanish, as everyone here is bilingual in Catalan and Castillano. And, as I mentioned to Miguel from San Francisco in a previous post here, if you pick up a few phrases in Catalan, you'll be sure to make plenty new local amics (amigos).

Enjoy Barcelona!

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Phoenix, Ariz.: My last trip, with an aunt, to Barcelona taught we why they called hostals "HOSTILE". Can you suggest affordable hotels at good prices, for the trip I am planning next summer with my husband? We love Gaudi and street fairs, but sure won't book that same place.

AnneLise Sorensen: Sorry to hear about your experience. A note about hostals in Spain: hostal or pension in Spanish is, in fact, more of an inexpensive hotel, very different from a hostel (as in youth hostel), as we say in English. In Catalan, a youth hostel is called an Alberg (which is often accompanied by an English sign saying "youth hostel"). That said, while quite basic, most hostales in Spain offer the best accommodation deals--so if you're looking for affordable, that's usually the way to go. I've recommended several hostales in my earlier posts, so do look at my previous answers for further options. One central, reasonably priced hotel is Hotel Suizo (Pl de l'Angel 12, 93/310-6108, gargallo-hotels.com); ask for a room with balcony to enjoy lofty views of the plaza below. And, if you'd like to go more budget, you could try the simple, family-owned Hostal Ciudad Condal (C Mallorca 255), in the Eixample neighborhood; for some quiet, opt for a room facing the interior courtyard and garden. Enjoy your stay!

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AnneLise Sorensen: It's time for me to say adios. Thanks for joining me today, and best of luck on your visit to Barcelona and Catalonia. I regularly write (and wine-taste) my way across Spain--and the rest of the globe; if you'd like more information or links to my articles and guidebooks, email me at alsoren@yahoo.com.

Bon viatge!