Vegas Air/Hotel, From $169
The City of Sin is calling you with this three-night getaway.
AnneLise Sorensen: You're in luck: Belize abounds with spa resorts, many of which embrace the ecological spirit of Belize—so, not only will you emerge with your pores clean and glowing, but your conscience too. If you're visiting the Maya sites of the north, then you might want to "indulge in the jungle" at the Maruba Resort and Jungle Spa (tel. 501/225-5555, maruba-spa.com), which lies near Maskall at Mile 40, Old Northern Highway. At Maruba, it's all in the mud. Plumbed from the earth and brimming with minerals, it's the kind of rich goop that you'll happily smear on your body parts, then submit to its rejuvenating tingle while reclining in a breezy cabana, eyes closed against the warm sun. The resort sits amid dewy tropical foliage, so as you lie in your palm-shaded hideaway for a "mood mud" body scrub, you might hear the rustling of wild critters foraging in the undergrowth. This is pampering with a primal edge, and let's face it—there's something especially hedonistic about a pedicure in the jungle.
The Maya site of Altun Ha lies near Maruba, so you can trek up giant stone temples in the early light of day, then wind down with a scalp massage and an African Honey Bee scrub, and as night falls, sip rum punch from a hairy coconut with the top lopped off. As you might expect, the primitive-meets-posh Maruba is all very decadent—think gleaming mahogany ceilings, billowing silks, feather beds, wafting incense and hibiscus-strewn, mosaic bathrooms—but it's done with a wink. Quirky, jungle-chic details abound: a carved penis as a toilet paper holder in the lobby bathroom; palm fronds as placemats; rough-hewn walls studded with recycled glass bottles of Belikin beer and Fanta. In the best eco tradition, little goes to waste at the largely self-sustaining resort, where the natural surroundings are respectfully incorporated at every turn.
Another splendid resort is The Lodge at Chaa Creek (tel. 501/824-2037, chaacreek.com), in the west, on the banks of the Macal River, at the end of the Chial Road. Whitewashed, wood-and-stucco cabañas sit on leafy grounds sloping down to the rushing river. The hilltop spa fetures an impressive pamper menu, including seaweed body wraps and hydrating facials. For a true escape, enjoy a full-body massage at the private outdoor palapa, with nothing but softly chirping birds all around you.
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Bronx, N.Y.: I was thinking of planning a trip to Belize for my boyfriend and myself. We will be departing NYC Sept. 7-14. I have been hearing that the beaches are not that nice in some parts. What would be the best area to stay? Preferably with a beautiful beach and access to shop and night life within walking distance?
AnneLise Sorensen: Go south: Some of Belize's finest beaches are around the Placencia peninsula—with soft sand, swaying palms, and warm breezes. And, while the town of Placencia is rather small and laid-back, you will find plenty of fine restaurants and a smattering of bars where you can enjoy rum-based cocktails while watching the sun dip into the Caribbean Sea.
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New York, N.Y.: We are going on a cruise in November which stops in Belize City. We have a five-year-old and a 18-month-old ACTIVE boy. I have checked the (Royal Caribbean) onboard excursions and have not found one that fits our needs. We would prefer to go to a clean, safe beach where there are bathroom/ changing facilities and food available, and would really to have the option for mom and dad to snorkel while the other parent watches the kids. Most of the snorkeling trips seem to have minimum ages or require long boat rides that we would prefer not to do with our toddler since he has a hard time sitting still (and not sure if they would have a small life jacket). We will also be tendered there so we know we will have to deal with at least one boat ride each way. The only other alternative would be a Mayan ruins excursion, but they may require too much walking for the kids. We could carry my toddler in a backpack but I worry about asking my 5-year old to possibly walk and climb over difficult terrain, in likely very hot, humid weather. Any suggestions (sorry for the length!)? Thank you!
AnneLise Sorensen: Hello, it sounds like you'll have your hands full! Firstly, it depends on how long you'll be in port, but I'll assume that it's just for a day. Most cruise ships have scheduled day-trips to the cayes and nearby Maya ruins, but you're right—this can involve a fair amount of either boat or bus travel, which might tire out the little ones. With all that in mind, here's a potential option: The recently opened Old Belize Cultural and Historical Center (daily 10am-4.30pm; Bz$10; tel. 501/222-4129, oldbelize.com), on Mile 5 of the Western Highway. The informative, well-run center was created as an "appetizer to Belize"—a colorful, interactive overview of the country all under one roof, targeted specifically towards time-pressed cruise ship visitors like yourselves with, say, just a day to spare. It continues to draw the cruise crowd, but thanks to its adjoining open-air restaurant and man-made beach, it's also a hit with the locals. You enter the experiential museum through a mahogany tree, wander past ongoing videos on the country's varied ethnic groups and natural riches, and then explore a series of rooms, each of which highlights different eras in the country's timeline. Start off in the humid rainforest room, complete with 700 species of trees, a waterfall, and a cage of fluttering Blue Morpho butterflies. Next is the dimly lit Mayan Village, with life-size stone carvings and a replica wood-and-thatch home of Mayan farmers. You'll also see a Garifuna dwelling—and hear the piped-in beats of traditional Garifuna drumming—and walk along a recreated Belize City street lined with wooden homes from the early 1900s.
The adjoining Cucumber Beach (daily 10am-6pm; included in museum entrance, or Bz$5 for a beach pass), fashioned out of reclaimed land, is fairly small but well-groomed, with a couple of activities popular with youngsters, like water tubes and a "tarzan swing" diving board. For a bite, try the Sibun Bite Bar and Grill (daily 11am-9pm), with high ceilings made of native hardwoods, where you can tuck into nicely priced Belizean specialties on the outdoor terrace overlooking the beach. During the week (Tues-Thurs) you might catch Belizean dancing and singing, usually during the late morning and lunch.
Looking for gifts to take the folks back home? Old Belize is also a great place for one-stop souvenir shopping, with reasonably priced wooden products, including cutting boards and coasters, local hot sauces and books on Belize.
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Cordova, Alaska: Hello, my name is Solomon and in December I'm traveling to Belize to photograph ancient Mayan ruins in Tikal and Lamanai. What should I expect to encounter? Is there one temple you suggest? I'm in fairly good health for a man of my age—'ahem' 40.
AnneLise Sorensen: Hi, Solomon. From Alaska to Belize in December—what a great way to thaw out! Well, as a photographer, you're in for a treat—the Maya sites are superbly photogenic.
As for what you'll encounter? I'll start out with Lamanai, in Belize, which makes for a memorable adventure—as much for the riverboat journey along the river, as for the site itself. I traveled along the New River to Lamanai earlier this year, on a paint-flecked boat with a local capitán at the helm. Though the river waters were eerily placid, the steamy jungle along its banks was not: howler moneys scampered overhead, emitting guttural howls, while great blue herons extended their long necks, and flapped regally into the sky. As we floated near a strange black cluster quivering on a tree branch, the swarm disbanded, and hundreds of bats flew off every which way. Further down the river, an old barge, heavy in the water with its load of molasses, slowly drifted past us. On the deck sat three sun-browned beefy locals in sunglasses who raised their hands in unison. And, around a bend, in the distance, lay the Mennonite settlement of Shipyard—the men in wide-brim hats and women in ankle-length dresses an arresting image, particularly against the tropical backdrop Belize.
As our boat pulled up to the wooden dock at the Lamanai entrance, it began to rain—fat, heavy drops as we clomped single-file, stumbling over muddy roots. We were sweating in our windbreakers, mosquitoes were biting, and it all seemed like a lot of effort—and then the first majestic temple loomed into view. Once the sun came out, we started on the thigh-aching slog up the 35-metre "High Temple," which was the largest structure in the Maya world when it was first constructed in 100 BC. We pulled on a slippery rope, heaving up one massive step, then another. At the top, panting, we gazed out at the jungle canopy, a magnificent 360-degree panorama of dewy, tangled green stretching into the horizon. From up here, anything seemed possible. Until we looked at the climb down...
Several companies offer trips to Lamanai from Orange Walk down the New River, including Jungle River Tours, 20 Lover's Lane, Orange Walk (tel. 501/302-2293, lamanaimayatour@btl.net).
Get ready for even more climbing at the magnificent site of Tikal, in northern Guatemala, which showcases steep temples looming in the jungle. Best of luck with your trip—and your photography.
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Mountain Home, Idaho: We will be traveling to Belize Jan 24 & staying 2 nights on Caye Caulker & 7 nights on Ambergris Caye. We are active 50+ & enjoy diving, snorkeling, ruins, jungles, etc. What would you suggest for 3 great adventures to do while there? Would you suggest flying to places like Tikal? Also I do not see supermarkets listed to buy food at on Ambergris Caye. Is there a place to stock up on some groceries?
AnneLise Sorensen: In addition to snorkeling and diving on the cayes, the splendid Maya sites of Northern Belize will also make for the "great adventures" that you're looking for. If you're limited on time, then your best bet is to explore ancient Altun Ha, which features two lovely Classic-period plazas. Many tour operators offer reasonably priced day-trips from Ambergris Caye.
However, if you do have more flexibility in your schedule, I recommend visiting the site of Lamanai, particularly if you can access it via riverboat along the New River from Orange Walk. (See my answer to Cordova, Alaska for more on the Lamanai trip and site).
Finally, is it worth seeing Tikal? Absolutely yes—in fact, if you can only fit in one Maya site on your trip, and you have the time, then make it Tikal—and at dawn. (For more, see my earlier posting on Tikal.)
As for groceries in Ambergris Caye: Buying your own food can be pricey, as there's no local market and the supermarkets are stocked primarily with canned imports. However, you will find a few decent spots, including Island Supermarket, on Coconut Drive at the southern end of San Pedro. Also, pop by La Popular bakery, on Buccaneer Street, for warm buns, including Mexican-style pan dulces.
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Camas, Wash.: Will the weather be hot and humid and will there be alot of bugs the first week of Sept. '07? Anything special I need to know or pack before leaving?
AnneLise Sorensen: September is still the rainy season, so the weather can be quite humid, though not quite as hot as in the dry season. If you plan on doing any outdoor trekking and exploring of Maya sites, make sure to pack sturdy shoes (think mud—and lots of it!) and insect repellent.
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San Diego, Calif.: We are going to Belize Oct 20-27, possible an extra day or two. Most likely we will stay the week in Ambergris Caye. Would you recommend staying on another island either at the front or end of our trip? We have seen Belize City and have no desire to stay there.
AnneLise Sorensen: For a change of pace from Ambergris Caye, pay a visit to the petite, palm-clad Caye Caulker, which has long been a stop on the backpacker trail. "Go slow" is the motto on the island, which is pretty much the only speed your golf cart will travel. Here, chilling out is a way of life, reggae the music, and ten or so languorous paces the distance from your beach shack to the sea. Decisions are similarly weighty: snorkel or sunbathe? Hairbraiding or henna tattoo? It's this sun-warmed simplicity that shapes one's days here—spend the morning floating on your back, then munching on tart shrimp kebabs from a beach grill, followed by a siesta under the rustling leaves of a fan palm. One could get very used to this. Enjoy your trip.
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Durango, Colo.: My family and I visited Ambergris Cay in March '06. We absolutely love the island, the snorkeling, the culture, the food, the town of San Pedro...but we hated the beach. There was virtually no sandy area and sea grass as far as we could see. We spent our days chartering a boat and driver to take us out to snorkel sites and swimming. Is there any area in Belize where you can enjoy all the amazing things it has to offer and also have a nice "walk in" beach? Also, have you ever been to the all-inclusive resorts that lie way off the coast and cater to divers and snorkelers? Thanks!
AnneLise Sorensen: Glad to hear you enjoyed Ambergris Caye, but for the beaches. This time around, why don't you try heading south? I mentioned this in an earlier posting, but it bears repeating: The Placencia peninsula features the country's most beautiful beaches—with bright-blue water lapping soft, sun-warmed strips of sand. Placencia is also a prime jumping-off point for further exploration around the sea and reef, where you can sail, snorkel, and even try wall diving. Bon voyage!
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AnneLise Sorensen: Thanks for joining me today, and best of luck on your visit to Belize. I regularly write (and wine-taste) my way across the globe, from Central America to Spain. If you'd like more information or links to my articles and guidebooks, email me at alsoren@yahoo.com. Goodbye!