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Shop

To my husband's dismay, I'm a decidedly enthusiastic shopper. And luckily--for me, anyway--Marrakech is known for its amazing shopping.

Cradled within the medina's high fortresslike walls are the traditional markets, or souks. The majority of the souks are located to the north of the Jemaa el-Fna square. Picture a winding labyrinth with hundreds of shoebox-size stores overflowing with ornate lanterns, embroidered caftans, hammered teapots, leather poufs (a kind of ottoman that can also be made with carpet or fabric), and so much more. There's a method to the madness, as the souks are divided into areas of specialty, including metalwork, slippers, carpets, spices, and so on.

Bargaining is the name of the game, and despite what vendors say, they do have different prices for tourists and locals. Start by offering one third of the vendor's price (offer even less for carpets), and then gradually work your way to a happy compromise.

For the best prices, skip the shops on the outskirts of the Jemaa el-Fna and venture into the heart of the souks. Make a pit stop at the place des Ferblantiers to visit Najib La Joie. You can get tiny lanterns with panes of colored glass for $3 or less; they're so cheap, it's practically criminal not to buy several. For jersey caftans starting at $120--and gorgeous vintage ones--try Kasbek. They're perfect for when you host a Moroccan dinner party.

In the Mouassine district, Cadeaux Berberes has some fantastic Moroccan pottery at prices so fair that wholesalers shop there. Take a look at the painted pottery sinks for around $30. Down the road, on the wall of the Mouassine Mosque, you'll find a make­shift gallery of black-and-white photography. You can pick up a copy of a wonderful photo of old Morocco for about $10.

If you're interested in Moroccan carpets, Bazar Jouti, in the carpet souk, has a very nice selection. Offer a quarter of the price listed on the tag, and let the bargaining begin! Miloud Art Gallery, in Souk Cheratine, has a well-edited collection of poufs, pillows, clothes, lanterns, and bags. I'll say it again: Bargain!

Most of the shops at the Ensemble Artisanal, in the Kasbah district, aren't worth your time. Maison du Cuivre is an exception, with its fine lanterns, mirrors, and bowls. Also in the Kasbah is Light Gallery, which has a reliably hip collection of art.