Lathering Up in Japan

Never bare it all (Illustration by Kate Francis) [enlarge photo]

"Devon-san, you wash like you're Japanese!" my colleague Kimiko gushed after we had spent an evening at a Tokyo bathhouse. Although embarrassed by the timing of her compliment—she said it in front of a tableful of fellow teachers—I was beaming inside: I had cracked the subtle code of bathing in Japan.

Never bare it all
At most bathhouses, you can rent a towel the size of a magazine centerfold for about $1. This isn't for face washing—it's strictly for cover. Although bathhouses are separated into single-sex quarters, decorum dictates that you conceal your private parts when walking around. The aptly named "modesty towel" doesn't hide much, so pick your areas wisely.

Pre-soak scrub dow
n Shower before you bathe. Cleanliness is extremely important to the Japanese, especially at bathhouses, so all visitors are expected to wash before slipping into the tubs. And we're not talking a quick soap and rinse—you need to scour as if you're being paid per bubble. Squeaky-clean from head to toe? You're prepped to take the plunge!